It took us just a little while to realize that life in Chiang Mai got really good in the Soi, the back alleys, away from the heavy traffic and ugly concrete facades of the main streets. Here we found our favorite guest houses and quiet places to eat. Here we saw happy American girls walking along to their massage schools. The Soi all seemed to be numbered more than named. It was actually a bit confusing, even to the tuk tuk drivers.
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